From New Telemark Guide
This is an archive of consensus tips and tricks for use and care of the Rottefella NTN binding, gathered from the TelemarkTips.com topic of the same name. Use or follow these tips at your own risk, as they are simply techniques or knowledge that have worked for the contributor. Your mileage may vary.
To make stepping into the binding & pressing down the front throw easy, make sure the heelpiece is not keeping the boot too high (which can cause the NTN 'claw' to be positioned too low and therefore will not engage the 'duckbutt' smoothly). This potential issue can be easily assessed visually w/ the ski and boot on your bench at home.
With v1.0 heelpieces, which were quite tall, the easy fix is to: a) remove the black plastic piece from the heel b) position the heelpiece farther back on the ski. the various holes in the heelpiece base should allow you to do this w/o drilling any new holes.
With v2.x heelpieces and large boots, you may find that the heelpieces are too short -- in which case slide the heelpiece forward on the ski. This also has the advantage of increasing the ramp angle for skinning up steep hills.
- Step on foot into one ski
- Use the other free foot to press down on the latch
- Put other foot in.
- Use the end of a pole to press down on the latch for the other foot.
- If you don't care about your bases, just step on the last latch with the other foot that has a ski on it (see below).
Stepping in without poles. .
- Flip one for your poles upside and hold it by the pointy end.
- Using an edge at the tip of a handle, hook one of the latches.
- Pull up on the pole and the latch should release.
- Repeat for other ski.
Heelpiece falls down while skinning
Some possible solutions:
- Turn the heelpiece around
- In some heelpieces the white plastic climbing bar can "creep" out of the up position with each step due to the plastic part binding in the aluminum channel and not returning to its full upright position. Eventually the climbing bar will acheive an angle where the next step forces it into the down position. One solution is to grind away some of the plastic in the area where it contacts the aluminum channel to prevent this binding action, and the spring returns the climbing bar to its full upright position. A small amount of lubricant can be applied to the area as well to achieve the same result. 
- Sometimes mounting the heelpiece too tight against the ski may cause the aluminum frame to deform and pinch the plastic riser. Best solution is to avoid this situation by not overtightening the screws when mounting the heelpiece. If you have overtightened the screws, see if you can back out the screws. A good test to see if the frame isn't deformed is to put it into the rise position and flick the riser - allowing it to slap into position. If there's any friction, the riser won't flip back to it's fullest extent. Back out the screws until it moves freely and then reglue the screws with stronger adhesive (something like JBWeld will work fine).
Binding swapping is easy with NTN
- When dealing with the set screws to remove the binding, avoid removing the screws completely. You only need to back out the screws enough to clear the detent holes so that the binding can slide off.
- When tightening the set screw that holds binding to mount plate dimple, DO NOT over-tighten. The threads can be easily stripped, as they're only aluminum. If possible use some blue thread-locker and merely snug the screw.
Normally people all store skis with the tips pointed up. You may consider pointing them downward to allow any water that has collected in the spring tubes to drain. This will help prevent the springs from rusting and breaking prematurely.
- Check the binding screws often, they have a tendency to loosen up. A loose screw is more likely to wear the threads.
- If the binding starts squeaking if your raise the heels in ski mode, try lubing all the plastic parts underneath the chromed release lever with a silicone spray. There are several moving pieces and joints so make sure you lube all of them.